Mga Kuwentong Pagkain 2023 1st Runner-up: An Asthmatic’s Idea of a Feast by Mark Russell Caranzo

In a world that seemingly revolves around the sensory delight of diverse cuisines, I find myself navigating a culinary landscape colored by the limitations of my own breath. As an asthmatic, my culinary journey is one defined by a careful dance around forbidden flavors and cautious bites. Chicken, crabs, shrimp–they all sit on the no-fly list. My culinary haven solely exists within the realms of what my mother lovingly prepares, a sanctuary where each ingredient is a known ally. In fact, my meal plan is but a triumvirate of pritong isda, inun-unan, and tinola–a trinity I've grown food fatigue with, but has whispers that echo a comforting tune of safety and familiarity.

Fortunately, there are special occasions that I can look forward to: Christmas, birthdays, and fiestas. During those special moments, I temporarily break free from the grip of the holy trinity as I watch my mother showcase her ability to cater to my fragile taste buds. There, at the heart of our humble kitchen, unfolds a culinary creation so commonly unique that it lacks a name. A symphony of beef, dancing in a marinade of toyo, calamansi, brown sugar, onion, and garlic. No measuring spoons, no precise quantities–just an intuitive mixture born from my mother's hands and her innate understanding of which ingredients won’t usher me to a hospital bed.

Yet, the concoction isn’t rushed; instead, it's allowed to harmonize and intensify its flavors as it absorbs the essence of each component overnight. The marinated meat is then sizzled in the frying pan for about five minutes before a generous coating of banana ketchup is applied to add a sweet and tangy note. The scent of this nameless masterpiece, which my mother describes as a fusion of beef steak, porkchop, adobo, and barbeque, becomes my feast: a testament to a mother's love translated into flavors that dance on my palate without triggering the wheezing hums of my asthmatic lungs.

During Noche Buena, my mother would also assume the role of a food detective, quizzing my aunt and grandmother regarding every dish they would prepare as if solving a gastronomic crime. She would grill them about every ingredient to scan for potential hazards. One wrong move, one suspicious spice, and the dish would face banishment from my limited menu.

Then comes the grand spectacle of my birthday, a day of culinary duplicity. My mother, in a feat of food acrobatics, cooks each dish not once, but twice. The first version is a crowd-pleaser with all the usual ingredients. The second version, however, is the stripped-down, asthmatic-friendly edition, where eggs, pineapples, bagoong, and their culinary comrades are banned. It's like having a culinary twin for each dish: one for the adventurous taste buds and one for the wheezy side of life.

Fiestas, meanwhile, have their own script in this culinary play. My mother, the master strategist, would discreetly advise the lechon server to heap on my plate a portion double the usual size. Why? Because, according to her, lechon is the only dish on the table I can consume without summoning the powers of my trusty nebulizer.

Yet, amid all these high-stakes culinary dramas, my mother always has her secret weapon on hand: that unnamed masterpiece I described earlier, ready to report for duty, in case the other dishes don't make the cut. It's her way of making sure I won’t have to spend every holiday with only a cup of rice to consume.

Hence, despite the constraints imposed by my asthma, I never once felt a sense of deprivation. My mother's unwavering commitment to ensuring that every Christmas, birthday, and fiesta remains a celebration, despite the limitations on my plate, has left me with a profound sense of gratitude.

Yet, my mother’s dish reflects an even bigger picture: a deeply ingrained spirit of inclusivity in Filipino culture. She went above and beyond, not out of necessity, but driven by a cultural ethos that values collective joy and shared celebration. It reflects a quintessential Filipino belief that celebrations are not complete unless everyone, especially our loved ones, is included in the merriment.

Growing up asthmatic, therefore, has led me to discover that inclusivity is a defining Filipino trait. Filipinos have an innate desire to celebrate with loved ones and ensure no one is left behind. In fact, this sentiment goes beyond the realm of festivities—it extends to everyday experiences. Whether it's a heartwarming meme, a delicious meal, or a new piece of clothing, the instinct is to share, to spread the joy, and to include others in the experience. I believe it’s a cultural reflex, an instinctive response to the understanding that joy is amplified when shared. It's a tradition that surpasses boundaries and embraces diversity, making sure that everyone, regardless of their circumstances, can partake in the festivities.

Through the years, my mother's culinary prowess has not just become a beacon that guided me through a world of diverse tastes but also reminded me that in the heart of Filipino celebrations, there is always a place for everyone. It's a testament to the belief that true celebration lies not in personal enjoyment alone but in shared laughter, shared meals, and shared experiences with those we hold dear.

In every bite of my mother’s nameless masterpiece, I feel the heartbeat of a culture that refuses to be defined by limitations. I am a beneficiary of a tradition that turns ordinary festivities into extraordinary expressions of togetherness. Hence, in the grand feast of life, where the aroma of shared joy wafts through the air, I am honored to be a part of a community that understands the true essence of celebration. No asthma has taken away the warmth, the love, and the inclusivity that define the Filipino spirit. It's a spirit that echoes in every celebration, ensuring that, no matter the circumstance, the feast of life is a banquet where everyone is not just invited but cherished.

My Mother

Mga Kuwentong Pagkain 2023 2nd Runner-up: Sumang Pasko ng Bulakan (Bayanihan sa Kapaskuhan) by Joey Rodrigo

Isang araw na lang Pasko na! Mamayang gabi ay Noche Buena! Abalang-abala na ang lahat sa paghahanda ng pagkain, mga regalo, at mga bagong damit na ipansisimba sa Misa de Gallo sa pagsalubong sa Pasko sa hatinggabi. Iyan ang karaniwang pananabik na nararanasan ng mga Pilipino sa bisperas ng Pasko.

Subalit sa Bulakan, bukod sa mga nabanggit na, ay may iba pang pinagkakaabalahan—isang tradisyong minana pa sa mga Bulakenyong ninuno, ito ay ang paghahanda ng Sumang Pasko.

Sumang Pasko at Sarsang Ube

Umaga pa lamang ng a-beinte kwatro ay may ilang mga kababaihan sa barangay na naglilibot sa mga bakuran at bahay- bahay upang maghanap at manghingi ng mga gamit at mga sangkap sa pagluluto ng Sumang Pasko. May pumuputol ng tunod o batang dahon ng saging, may nangangalap ng malagkit na bigas, may nagpapaakyat sa puno ng niyog, may nanghihingi ng asin, may pumipitas ng dahon ng kalumata, may nagsisibak ng panggatong, may nakatoka rin sa pangunguha ng ube at maraming iba pa.

Kapag nakalikom na sila ng mga rekado at mga gamit na kailangan ay magtitipon na sila sa isang lugar kung saan ay magtutulong- tulong sila sa paggawa ng suman. May nakatoka sa paghuhugas ng bigas, may maggagadgad ng niyog, may magbibilad sa dahon ng saging, may magsisindi ng kalan na paglalagyan ng kawa o malaking kawali, may magpipiga ng gata, may magtitimpla at maghahalo sa bigas, asin, gata, at kalumata. Habang niluluto sa malaking kawa ang malagkit ay walang patid itong hinahalo upang hindi dumikit sa kawa hanggang sa manuyo ang gata at mainin ang kaning malagkit.

Sunod namang pagtutulungan ay ang pabibilot ng kaning malagkit sa dahon ng saging. Metikulosong gagawin ang bawat isang pahabang suman na dapat ay pantay-pantay ang sukat. Umaabot sa maghapon ang pagbibilot ng libo-libong ginagawang suman para sa buong kapitbahayan. Ang ibang hindi nakasama sa pagbibilot ay sila namang tagapaypay sa mga pinapawisan at tagabugaw ng langaw. Mayroon ding ang aasikasuhin naman ay ang pagluluto ng malabnaw na halaya na siyang gagamiting sarsa.

Ang mga nabilot na suman ay pagbibigkis-bigkisin nang tigsasampung piraso at babalutan muli ng dahon ng saging. Ang mga ito naman ay pakukuluan nang may kalahating oras sa isang malaking kaldero. Pagkatapos nito ay luto na ang pinakaaabangang suman.

Ganito kami sa Bulakan. Maraming nagtutulong-tulungan para lamang makapagluto ng suman at sarsa ang pamayanan. Ang mas nakakabilib pa rito ay walang tumatanggap ng bayad. Lahat ay libreng nagkakaloob ng pwede nilang maitulong.

Kapag naluto na ang suman ay paghahatian ang mga ito ng lahat ng nagbigay ng kontribusyon, mula sa mga nag-ambag ng mga rekado at gamit, nagpagod sa pagluluto at pagbibilot, nagsibak ng kahoy o anuman ang naitulong. Kung may sumobra ay ipamimigay ito sa mga kapuspalad na kabarangay.

Lahat ay magkakaroon. Ang kasabihan nga ay bawal ang madamot kapag Pasko.

Dahil sa pagbibigayang ito ng magkakapitbahay ay lahat nagkakaroon ng Sumang Pasko sa Noche Buena. Hindi man lahat ay nakakayanan na makapaghanda ng hamon, lechon o morcon ngunit gayunpaman may Sumang Pasko na mapagsasaluhan. Kung kaya para sa maraming taga-Bulakan, ang kumukumpleto sa kanilang Noche Buena ay ang Sumang Pasko.

Perfect Combination

Bawat Bulakenyo ay ito ang paborito. Ang pinaghalong lasa ng alat ng suman at tamis ng sarsang halaya na may kasamang linamnam ng niyog at bango ng kalumata ay nakasanayang sarap tuwing Pasko mula pa sa sinaunang panahon na nagpapatuloy hanggang sa ngayon. ‘Yan ang Sumang Pasko na ipinagmamalaki ng Bulakan, Bulacan. Masarap na bahagi ng kaugaliang Bulakenyo tuwing Pasko. Patunay na buhay na buhay ang diwa ng bayanihan tuwing Kapaskuhan dito sa Bulakan.

The Mama Sita Foundation shares its vision during Cagayan Valley-themed dinner at the ADMU

True to its mission of empowering advocates of Philippine culinary heritage, the Mama Sita Foundation (MSF) threw its full support behind “DISCOVER CAGAYAN VALLEY COOKING” a dinner symposium organized by Dr. Fernando Nakpil Zialcita’s class on “Introduction to Cultural Heritage” under the Department of Sociology and Anthropology, at the Ateneo de Manila University (ADMU). 

Held recently at the roof deck of the Ricardo and Rosita Leong Hall, the dinner was curated by Jan Karl Coballes of the Philippine Information Agency and Cagayan Heritage Conservation Society. Guests from government, the academe, and various advocacy groups feasted on dishes boasting of the region’s unique flavors, owing to its lush and fertile valleys, which is flanked by deep mountain ranges, and crisscrossed by the longest and widest river in the country. 


Healthy Menu

The healthy dinner, served buffet style, featured of an array of Cagayanon specialties: Chicharabao – Carabao rind crackling, a delicacy from Tuguegarao; Sinanta – a comforting and tasty noodle dish with clams and chicken, served with Pinakufu, a fried rice cake; Sarabasab – a robust meaty dish of flame-grilled pork, chopped and seasoned with vinegar, chili, and other spices; Inabraw – assorted vegetables stewed in fermented fish sauce, garnished with clams, dried shrimp, and fried fish or smoked fish; and for dessert, Binallay – a sticky rice delicacy wrapped in banana leaves and served with coconut sauce; and Carabao milk candies, another specialty of the valley which is famous for raising Carabao herds. For drinks, guests were served the refreshing Binarayang – liquor distilled from the nipa palms of Pamplona, Cagayan, doused with lemon juice and syrup.

From left to right:  Inabraw – assorted vegetables stewed in fermented fish sauce, garnished with clams, dried shrimp, and fried fish or smoked fish ;  Sinanta – a comforting and tasty noodle dish with clams and chicken, served with Pinakufu, a fried rice cake; Binallay – a sticky rice delicacy made with glutinous rice dough, wrapped in banana leaves, steamed, and served with sweet coconut sauce.

Learning outcomes and aspirations


In her welcome remarks, MSF President Clara Reyes-Lapus linked the dinner symposium’s desired learning outcomes to the Foundation’s vision of achieving agricultural sustainability and food security for the nation. “This is a rare opportunity to share our thoughts on farming and Cagayan Valley’s unique culinary heritage. Both subjects are core concerns of the Mama Sita Foundation. It has been our aspiration to bring together diverse groups of people to make an implementable long-term development plan to keep our farmers happy and equip them to produce more food for Filipinos. These are not just corporate platitudes but genuine objectives founded on the goals that my mother, Teresita “Mama Sita” Reyes wanted to achieve for her family and her kababayans – healthy food for every table, no one hungry, sustainable, abundant harvests, thriving communities enjoying all-weather roads, affordable electricity, reliable transportation, communications, and potable water systems”.  

Mrs. Lapus went on to say that the dinner should serve as a prelude for more interactions among Cagayanons, government officials, community leaders, students, educators, and private investors to come up with solutions that will enable farmers to plant more diversified crops, meet higher yields, and connect them to dedicated buyers and processors who are looking for quality raw materials.


Meanwhile, Nancy Reyes Lumen, multimedia personality exhorted the guests to have empathy for farmers through a fun onstage rendition of the much-loved Filipino classic “Magtanim Ay Di Biro”. She also spoke about the Foundation’s annual food essay writing contest “Mga Kuwentong Pagkain” which focuses on holiday dishes this year.

Towards the end of the dinner symposium, Dr. Zialcita shared a presentation on possible projects for Cagayan Valley in 2024. Under the umbrella theme of “Heritage for Sustainable Development”, next year’s intersessions would include field studies focused on the region’s long-held traditions in pottery, bladesmithing, fruit and vegetable pickling, and bakong craftsmanship. 

Dinner guests - academics and advocates

Notable dinner guests include Assistant Secretary Genevieve Velicaria-Guevarra of the Department of Agriculture; National Scientist Raul V. Fabella of the University of the Philippines (UP) School of Economics; Prof. Jed Abaya Gomez of the UP School of Land Use and Regional Planning; ADMU’s Dean of Loyola School of Social Sciences Czarina Saloma-Akpedonu, Dean Raphael A. Guerrero of Loyola’s School of Science and Engineering; Chair Jowel Canuday of the Department of Sociology and Anthropology, ADMU; Coordinator Filomeno Sta. Ana III of the Action for Economic Reforms; Executive Advisor Lorraine I. Gomez of the GHD Advisory Engineering Services; Prof. Pedro “Edru” R. Abraham Jr. of UP, Mylene Lising of Crania Heritage Sciences, Inc.; Architect Michael T. Tabao, Instructor at University of Saint Louis, Tuguegarao City and President of the Cagayan Heritage Society; authors and culinary advocates Ige Ramos and Nina Daza-Puyat, 45th CMMA’s Best Children’s Short Story awardee, among others.

At the MSF’s booth, guests also enjoyed generous samplings of Mama Sita’s Balitanaw Heirloom Rice Champorado and assorted vinegars which are part of the brand’s artisanal product lines.

The Mama Sita Foundation holds tree-planting activity in Mexico Pampanga to celebrate UNESCO’s Day of the Galleon

The Mama Sita Foundation (MSF) together with various advocacy groups recently held a tree planting activity at a privately-owned 12-hectare farm located in Barangay Suclaban, Mexico, Pampanga to celebrate UNESCO’s Day of the Galleon, a historical event which marks the arrival of the first Manila galleon in Acapulco, Mexico, on October 8, 1565.

Currently managed by the MSF, the farm is envisioned to be a model nursery for highly marketable crops that will serve local food manufacturers’ rising demand for raw materials. “We want these model nurseries to attract agri-investors, especially young entrepreneurs and returning overseas Filipinos who are looking for lucrative and meaningful investments. We will offer affordable planting materials and portions of this farm as investment sites,” said Clara Reyes Lapus, President of the Mama Sita Foundation.

On the same day, MSF shared via Zoom an audio-visual (AVP) presentation featuring various topics under the umbrella theme of agricultural sustainability. 

To a global audience comprising different advocacy groups, students, media, government representatives, and concerned citizens, the AVP presentation delivered messages from various experts on the significance of the Day of the Galleon, the importance of farming and agriculture to nation-building, the value of preserving agricultural lands, and farm tourism, among other topics. 

The Galleon Trade, which flourished for more than three centuries played a critical role in advancing agriculture by facilitating the exchange of crops and farming techniques among various regions. It was a historical breakthrough that had vast implications on economies, food security, culture, and heritage.

In her talk at the Zoom AVP, culinary historian and author Felice Prudente Sta. Maria said that “Nations seldom celebrate dates when they fell under colonial rule. The Day of the Galleon is intertwined inextricably with arrival of Spanish colonialism. However not to be overlooked is that the galleon experience had a positive side.  It was the vehicle by which our ancestors transitioned from bartering into a money economy and from being simply disengaged island communities fighting each other into Filipinas, a single, united political entity appearing on the global map.”

“Day of the Galleon reminds us that every generation needs to handle changes in such a way as to benefit the present and the future. We urge everyone to support a popular movement that continues championing thoughtful and just efforts in agriculture to protect our food security and culinary heritage,” adds Sta. Maria.

Meanwhile, Bart Manalang Lapus, Farm Management Officer of MSF encouraged the planting of achuete, tamarind, and guava. “I would like to propose the planting of guava, tamarind, and achiote trees. These species hold the key to transforming our economic landscape and rejuvenating lands that many thought were barren and lifeless. In a world where industries are constantly in search of safe and quality raw materials, it is essential to think beyond the conventional way of planting crops and explore the untapped potential of these trees. Guava, tamarind, and achiote are the unsung heroes that have been quietly waiting in the wings, ready to take center stage in our economic and agricultural revitalization.”

Also featured in the AVP are Engr. Christopher V. Morales, Assistant Secretary and Director for Farm Tourism Program of the Department of Tourism (DOT), Secretary Romulo V. Arugay of the Commission on Filipinos Overseas (CFO), Counselor Lupiño Lazaro Jr., Agricultural Counselor of the Philippine Embassy in Washington D.C., and Vellie Dietrich Hall, a planting advocate and consultant to the US Department of Defense.

“Day of the Galleon looks back at a historic voyage that introduced the world to Philippine crops and showcased the incredible bravery and resilience embedded in our Filipino identity. In line with the efforts of the DOT, we are actively championing Farm Tourism as a promising avenue for Philippine tourism. Farm tourism has evolved into a captivating nature and culture-based experience, offering travelers a unique connection to our heritage,” said Assistant Secretary, Engr. Christopher V. Morales of the DOT.

“Our Filipino migrants abroad, despite their distance from the Philippines keep their ties to their country strong, and this is evidenced in various forms of resources that they have invested in order to support small-scale, high-impact projects that contribute to the social and economic development of the Philippines. From 1990 to 2022, development assistance from migrant Filipinos amounting to Php 28 million have benefitted 22,250 farmers in various provinces. This continued inflow of assistance seeks to augment the initiatives of the national government in order to help our local farming communities,” shared Secretary Arugay.

Plant advocate Vellie Dietrich Hall, a consultant to the US Defense Department belabors the lack of education regarding the importance of planting trees. “It’s about time the community got together and be educated about the need to plant trees. Planting trees serve as hope, not just for the community but for the nation,” said Dietrich Hall.

Counselor Lupiño Lazaro Jr., Agricultural Counselor of the Philippine Embassy in Washington D.C., closed the AVP with a message of commendation and encouragement, “This bodes well with our mission of promoting sustainable agriculture. I commend the Mama Sita Foundation and its partners for their tireless efforts in promoting farming and agri-ventures, including through the foundation’s model nurseries, which is vital for our country’s economic growth and achieving food security.

“We want to inspire people, especially the younger generation to plant trees and to take up farming, and look at farm lands in a new light. Farms could be profitable and could generate new revenue streams apart from crop yields such as agro-tourism. Apart from that, planting will rejuvenate our soils and further enrich our botanical bio-diversity,” said Lapus in reiterating MSF’s vision for these initiatives. 

Mga Kuwentong Pagkain 2022 Semi-Finalist: Justin Ho Guo Shun

Champorado: The Comfort Food for My Spirit and Soul

My name is Justin Ho Guo Shun and I am a Singaporean living in the Philippines since 2020. I came to the Philippines to oversee a few humanitarian projects, and while it has been a rewarding experience, it has also been challenging at times. I often find myself missing my home and the familiar comfort of my culture's food.

One day, while I was feeling particularly homesick, I was invited to a neighborhood "salo-salo" by a group of locals who had become my friends. 

"Salo-salo" is a Filipino term that means coming together and sharing food with friends and family. I was hesitant at first, feeling uncertain about my ability to fit in with the group, but my friends reassured me and encouraged me to join them.

As I arrived at the gathering, I was struck by the warmth and welcoming atmosphere of the event. The neighborhood had transformed a small park into a festive gathering place, with tables and chairs set up in a large circle. The smell of grilled meats and the sound of laughter filled the air.

I was welcomed into the circle with open arms and introduced to everyone. As we sat down to eat, I was amazed by the spread of food in front of me. There was a variety of dishes, ranging from grilled meats to fried rice to bowls of steaming soup. My friends urged me to try everything and I eagerly complied, my mouth watering at the sight of all the delicious food.

I stumbled upon a local food called Champorado. It was a small stall at the side of the road and the aroma of the dish immediately caught my attention. The stall owner, a kind elderly woman, noticed my curious gaze and asked if I wanted to try some.

I nodded eagerly and she scooped out a generous portion of the creamy, chocolate-colored rice porridge into a small bowl. She then added a dollop of butter and a sprinkle of sugar before handing it to me. I took a hesitant spoonful and was immediately struck by the comforting warmth of the dish. It tasted rich and indulgent, yet also homely and familiar.

As we ate and chatted, I felt a sense of belonging and connection to the community that I had not experienced before. I realized that "salo-salo" was more than just a meal – it was a way for people to come together, share their stories and experiences, and support each other. It was a beautiful expression of the Filipino value of "Bayanihan", which is the act of working together and helping each other out as a community.

Anyway, Champorado is best served warm, when it is at its creamiest, but it is delicious either way.Both are excellent as a hearty breakfast or snack, but they are much better when drizzled with coconut or condensed milk. Try it with some of our vegan pandesal or on its own. You may keep Champorado (Tsampurado) for up to three days in the fridge or three months in the freezer. To prevent freezer burn and undue condensation, the Champorado should be allowed to cool to room temperature before being stored.

Reheating this creamy breakfast is best done in a pot or skillet on the stovetop or in a microwave-safe dish. The champorado may be thinned up with more coconut milk or water if necessary. Add a splash more coconut milk or condensed milk before serving.

As I sat at the stall savoring my Champorado, the elderly woman struck up a conversation with me. She told me that Champorado was a traditional Filipino breakfast food and that it was often served with dried fish. She chuckled at my surprised expression and explained that the combination of savory and sweet was actually quite common in Filipino cuisine. She also told me about the concept of "salo-salo", which means coming together and sharing food with friends and family.

I was intrigued and asked the woman if she could teach me how to make Champorado. She agreed and spent the next few hours teaching me the recipe and sharing stories about her life and the history of the dish. I learned that Champorado was originally a Spanish influence, but had been adopted and adapted by the Filipinos over time.

As the night drew to a close, I was filled with a sense of gratitude and joy. I had not only been treated to a delicious meal, but also to a glimpse into the heart of the Filipino culture. I left the "salo-salo" feeling nourished not just by the food, but also by the warmth and generosity of the people.

As I left the stall that day, I felt a sense of belonging and connection to the Philippines that I had not felt before. The elderly woman had not only introduced me to a delicious comfort food, but also to a piece of the country's cultural heritage and values. I left the stall with a full stomach and a full heart, feeling grateful for the unexpected connection I had made through Champorado.

Ever since that day, Champorado has become my favorite. It is a comfort food that brings me joy and a sense of connection to my temporary home in the Philippines. Every time I eat it, I am reminded of the kind elderly woman and the memories we shared. Champorado may just be a simple rice porridge, but to me, it represents so much more – the warmth and generosity of the Filipino people.

Because of Champorado, I now feel Philippine as my second home!

Mga Kuwentong Pagkain 2022 Semi-Finalist: Sheila Tagle

Ang Tunay na Torres ay Galit sa Gulay:  

A True Story of How My Uncle Ben Taught Me How to Eat Vegetables 

I grew up in a family compound in Pasay City where everything important in our lives is within walking distance or a short jeepney ride away. Our family compound is a U-shaped community  with a row of apartments facing another row that created a wide space in the middle where  children played during the day until the cars take over the spaces at night. My Papa, Mama, my  three sisters and I lived in one door apartment. Our unmarried uncles and aunties lived in another.  

I have one such uncle, my mother’s brother, who lived in the family compound. His name is  Ben. One day, he said to me, “Shell, come with me to Libertad and let’s eat.” This was in the  early 1980s and I was only about 8. From our family compound we walked to Holiday Plaza. At  that time, the popular restaurant was Goldilocks. I remember feeling the cold temperature upon  entering the glass door and delighting at the sampler of children’s birthday cakes at the  refrigerated stalls. There was a Superman cake and a Cinderella cake.  

I ordered my favorites: brownies and spaghetti. My Uncle Ben ordered lumpiang sariwa. I  mindlessly ate my brownies as I watched my uncle savor the lumpia. He cut into the thin, soft  lumpia wrapper, slathered with sweet garlicy brown sauce and sprinkled with chopped peanuts as  he scooped up a portion of carrots, ubod, green beans in match-like strips wrapped inside. He put  a spoonful into his mouth and started chewing fast and delightedly and with crunchy munching sound effects (“chomp, chomp, chomp”). I asked him, what is that green leaf? To which my  uncle replied, “That’s lettuce.” And what is that round nut? “Oh, that’s garbanzo.” Watching  Uncle Ben eat lumpiang sariwa that day convinced me that vegetables are the most delicious  food in the world. 

After that day, lettuce and garbanzo became my favorites. Whenever a scrap book question asked “what is your favorite food?”, I answered lumpiang sariwa. Whenever we ate at Goldilocks or at  a restaurant where it was served, I ordered lumpiang sariwa. And, from then on, because I loved  lettuce, carrots, ubod, green beans, cabbage, celery, I enjoyed all kinds of salads and a whole variety of other vegetables. 

Fast forward to 20 years. During a family gathering, I told Uncle Ben, “Alam mo ba, Uncle Ben,  na ikaw ang nagturo sa akin kumain ng gulay?” He said, “Huh? Paano nangyari yun eh hindi  ako mahilig kumain ng gulay?!” As background, our family barely ate vegetables. The Torreses  love lechon, inihaw na baboy, or nilagang baka. Kaya naman ang tunay na Torres ay galit sa  gulay. I recounted that day at Goldilocks in the 1980s when we just walked a few blocks to eat  and how he devoured that lumpia sariwa! My uncle said, “Mabilis at magana lang talaga ako  kumain, may sound effects pa (“yum, yum, yum”), but it doesn’t mean I love vegetables.” But it  was too late. By that time, 20 years na akong mahilig sa gulay, eating mostly vegetables than  meat. 

And that is the story of how I became a pioneer of the family: the first to love vegetables. I  eventually shared my love for vegetables with my son and daughter. In May this year, Uncle Ben  passed away. I will always remember him kasi sya ang nagturo sa akin kumain ng gulay.

Mga Kuwentong Pagkain 2022 Winners: Edelwisa Roman Gonzaga, Essay Category

Taking home the award for Overall Best Essay of Mga Kuwentong Pagkain 2022 is none other than Edelwisa Roman Gonzaga!

The 49-year-old Filipina regales us with her work titled ‘Chasing Ginilo. In the colorful account, she reminisces her fondest childhood memories in Bataan where she would make the sweet beverage with her family. Despite moving to Washington, Edelwisa still enjoys the samalamig drink by making it with her own children. Even though she is limited by the ingredients available to her, every indulgent bite still takes her back to the good old days. ‘Liquid nostalgia,’ she calls it! 

Check out her full written work here:

Chasing Ginilo

My childhood food memories are disorganized like a clump of unwieldy pancit palabok strands. They’re a delicious, sometimes hideous, mixed bag of gustatory experiences, but some do stand out. Growing up in Orani, Bataan, I would regularly buy buwaya (some locals called it buhaya)- large, ensaymada-like bread that resembled the back of a crocodile, thus the name. Copious amounts of mantekilya and sugar toppings glistened in the scorching afternoon sun as I walked, ran, and skipped all the way to my grandparents’ old but imposing ancestral home. The bread left a sensational aroma that older women smoking alhambra and bataan matamis, or those washing their dirty laundry using palopalo and royal blue Superwheel couldn’t help but turn.

“Kung may pambara, dapat may pantulak.” Food must always be washed down by a drink- this old adage admonished. In our family, ginilo was the summer cooler of choice, oftentimes buwaya’s perfect companion for minindal. Originally from the neighboring province of Pampanga, ginilo was fully embraced by the people of Bataan gracing the tables of many homes and samalamig stalls. My Nanay Edna would grate mature coconut (niyog) using our trusty, if not a little rusty, kudkuran. Afterwards, the niyog would be gently pressed until the last iota of flavor was extracted.

Our homemade ginilo was rich and creamy as only white sugar and ice were added to fresh coconut milk. Boiled sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed, gave body to the drink. Gulaman would be added next- pristine white for those feeling virtuous (“ayoko ng may food color”), the more traditional red, or green, my family’s choice as we typically prepared gulaman with pandan-infused water. Pinipig rounded up the ingredients giving the sweetened coconut milk drink a tinge of nuttiness. The distinct “amoy pinipig” scent that filled the house and the popping sound the grains created as they’re being carefully toasted never failed to heighten our anticipation for the finished product.

Nutritious, filling, and affordable, ginilo was typically a weekend treat at our home. When ginilo craving struck and couldn’t wait to be satiated till the weekend, street vendors outside my elementary school filled the gap. Vendors ladled the drink in thick, reusable glasses (basyo) of local coffee and peanut butter. I would make a big gulp of the diluted version of my mother’s more indulgent ginilo. Then, I would pound at the bottom of the glass to release the gulaman, kamote, and pinipig nestled underneath. Or take all the solids, in one big, mouthful if the vendor kindheartedly provided a spoon.

Another source of my weekday ginilo was my maternal grandparents’ house. I would be asked to bring an extra glass to my grandmother Paz’s eldest sister, Lola Kaka who lived next door. The clanging ice in the glass as I made my way to Lola Kaka’s frequently empty house broke the monotony and humidity of those afternoons.

Lola Kaka was a local beauty during her heyday and was legendary for her fastidious skin care regimen. At first, I was horrified to see her fridge with jars of chilled Pond’s Cold Cream but after a while, I got used to the idea of the glass of ice-cold ginilo sharing precious shelf space with another creamy staple, albeit the non-edible kind. But times changed. I didn’t stay a carefree kid and went to Manila for college and eventually, work. Alas, no ginilo in the big city. The closest thing I could get was ginilo’s more sophisticated cousin, Via Mare’s guinomis, served as part of a shooters trio together with other iconic Pinoy treats like halo-halo and mais con hielo.

But times changed even in my hometown. My beloved ginilo is not as common as it was when I was growing up in the 70s and 80s. Its once hallowed position in the pantheon of local samalamig staples had been largely replaced by powdered milk tea and coffee concoctions. Samalamig stalls seemed to have steered clear of the once popular ginilo save for the Lenten season when the penitensya praying for full absolution of their sins and the crowd milling the streets would stop for a drink, this time not in empty coffee and peanut butter glasses of old but in plastic, single-use ones that made a screeching sound when crushed.

“Ang tagal ko ng hindi nakakatikim nito! ” my balikbayan guests would exclaim as they customized their ginilo. Nothing was more gratifying than to witness the visitors’ wistful smiles as they went for seconds, not just to quench their thirst but more importantly, to relive the good old days. Ginilo is always best enjoyed as a communal dining activity with family and friends. People can pile the ingredients high or low as they help themselves to the choices neatly laid out on the table. Indeed, as long as the yearning to connect with people through food persists, the tradition of preparing ginilo will never be totally forgotten.

In America where I now live, my Gen Z kids are still exposed to ginilo, albeit, the diasporic version using canned coconut milk and powdered gulaman. This old-fashioned beverage surprisingly meets the demands of a modern and more health conscious society. Gluten-free and plant-based, it may be considered a godsend to many.

Ginilo is liquid nostalgia. It is a balm, an antidote, to my homesickness, an edible express train that takes me back to a more genteel period. Each silent sip or noisy chug brings me to a bygone era when buwaya meant not just a ferocious animal nor a dishonorable person but a sweet indulgence to be joined in flavorful bliss by my luscious ginilo. In my reverie, the older women smoking alhambra or bataan matamis and those maidens washing their dirty clothes using palo-palo and royal blue Superwheel are giving me their two thumbs up as I continue to chase ginilo even away from the motherland.

Mga Kuwentong Pagkain 2022 Winners: Ian Ocampo Flora, Essay Category

This year’s Sorpresang Sangkap winner with the most unique entry (Essay Category) is Ian Ocampo Flora! 

In an evocative essay titled ‘A Soulmate of Flavors,’ this millennial talks about his granduncle who believes that some ingredients are fated to be together. This belief mirrors the Kapampangan relationship with food wherein they value the integrity of dishes and their core ingredients–ingredients that create their essence. 

One example is the granduncle’s favorite holiday dish, the Tausing Ema, which is made of mud crabs and blackbean sauce or tausi, a combination of ingredients that generate a totally magical world of flavors. Soul mates if you will!


Read his work below: 

A Soulmate of Flavors 

My granduncle, a consummate Kapampangan cook, and food critic of our family believed that there are cardinal flavors and ingredients ordained by God and nature to be forever fated with one another. Much like the processes involved in cooking traditional Kapampangan dishes, these ingredients are the core essentials of the dish's identity. 

Born out of many years of gastronomic evolution and practical sense, these ingredients have been paired to bring the best flavors possible to a particular dish.  These ingredients may never be removed though occasional alteration may be permitted in the form of additional complimentary ingredients that enhance the main ingredient’s flavor.  

This concept is very alive among Kapampangans who go up in arms and foaming in the mouth over social media when they see some uninitiated chef or cook put raw egg or mayonnaise into a sizzling plate of sisig, not really because it deviates from the traditional way of cooking sisig but because they find no reasonable gastronomic sense in adding ingredients that add an alien flavor to what a dish is supposed to taste like.  Understanding the flavor is one thing, enhancing a dish’s flavor palate is another entirely different discipline. Adding non-complimentary ingredients only proves that one has yet to taste real sisig in all its tangy-porky-greasy goodness. 

A case in point is my granduncle’s favorite holiday dish Tausing Ema (mud crabs cooked in black bean sauce).  The dish is simple, with mud crabs serving as the base ingredient; tausi (tochi) as a complementary ingredient, and vinegar as a binder. 

My granduncle learned the dish when he worked at the Consignacion of the fish market in Guagua in the 50’s where it was a peasant dish among pond and river fishermen.  Back then mud carb propagation was in its infancy as an industry.  Mud crabs then were easy to come by and were a delicacy for the poor, unlike today where a kilo would fetch as high as P1,500 during Christmas enough to cause a heart attack.  On the other hand, the use of tausi harkens to the ancient Chinese residents of the town (probably the ones who survived the great Chinese Massacre of 1762) that have long integrated with the local Kapampangan population of Guagua which inherited some of their culinary influences, the use of tausi among others.  

Tausi or tochi, which originates from China, is a fermented and salted black soybean sauce made from black soybeans. My granduncle would argue that you can cook meat or fish with tausi and it would just taste like, well, tausi. You will get no overwhelming flavor. No alchemic miracle.  But marry tausi and mud crabs together with vinegar as a binding ingredient and the result is a new universe of flavor.  The secret is the manner of cooking. My granduncle would insist on the crabs should be the fattest from the season’s harvest.  

We would usually troop to the Guagua Public Market at 2:00 in the morning of December 24 each year to catch the first batch of mud crabs being carted to the stalls of sellers from the nearby Consignacion. He would insist on buying the male crabs, but not just any male crabs, the mud crabs would have to be bakla which are more expensive. 

His choice for such crabs is not out of superstition, but from his long years as a pond worker. Mud crabs that are bakla are actually juvenile crabs that have yet to reach full maturity. These crabs are just of the right size, not too big not too small, and are easy to clean. 

My granduncle would personally choose the plastic batsa for each crab for slaughter.  Each crab would need to have a round apron on its belly distinguishing it from the more phallic aprons of its male counterparts.  He would weigh them against each other by the hand and choose the heavier of the two with a murmur of prayer to whomever saint comes to mind that the batch chosen would be blessed with the most aligue (crab fat). It is this fat that interacts with tausi and vinegar in producing the distinctive flavor of the dish. 

My granduncle would clean each crab with a new unused toothbrush removing gunk and whatever dirt from each crab’s body. Scrupulously cleaning the carbs ensures the dish would last longer.  Blanching the crabs with hot water instantly kills the crabs and allows one to safely cut them in two, any fat that drips out would be saved for cooking.   Tausi and vinger would be mixed together in a hot pot.  My granduncle would insist on the tausi brand that is sold in small plastic yellow cups. This brand is less salty than the canned ones.  The ratio of the two ingredients would be 2 cups of tausi to ½ cup of vinegar for a whole kilo of crabs.  Simmered in a hot pot, the crabs would be cooked for five to ten minutes mixing them evenly with the vinegar and tausi sauce allowing the aligue to seep into the mixture.  One would then add four cups of water to the dish and allow it to simmer for another three minutes. By this time, the magic has already worked its way. The aligue had already morphed with the tausi and the vinegar. The flavor is just the right saltiness with a tinge of light sour and sweet rich taste from the vinegar and aligue. The sauce from the dish would be enough to flavor a hot plate of rice.  

My granduncle would always remark that simple ingredients when tweaked in the right ratio and combination could spell a lot of flavorful differences. Cooking, he said is like a happy marriage, the flavors get along with one another, complementing and not overpowering to produce one ideal taste. Tasting this dish with your bare hands and slurping and sucking the flavor from the carbs would really convince you that there are indeed ingredients made for each other.